Leather Shoe History

Leather shoes through the ages

We all love a beautifully made leather shoe. Even our ancestors, living between the Neolithic and Bronze ages, opted for a comfortable one-piece foot covering made from cowhide.

By the Middle Ages (500 – 1500) leather shoes were made from a shaft and sole stitched together, and closures included buttons, straps and laces. Again, social status came into play. Princes and Earls were allowed to wear long, leather shoes with a point that curled up at the front (a poulaine), up to a length of 30 inches. While knights could only wear a poulaine that measured 18 inches and farmers were restricted to a mere six inches.

From 1600 – 1800s, fashionable men were found in long leather boots. While in court, both men and women wore low-heeled leather court shoes, often decorated with a bow. As the wearing of breeches died out and the long trouser took over, the half boot became popular, especially with Oxford students in the 1830s. It quickly became known as the Oxford boot and was fastened with laces or buckles. The version with laces ultimately became the Oxford shoes we know today.

Leather shoes were mass produced from the 19th century onwards, although the most discerning customers continued to have their leather footwear made to order. It was as this time the notion of having shoes made for left and right feet came about. Until about 1850, shoes were made on straight lasts with no difference between the right shoe and left shoe. There were often two widths though. A basic last produced a ‘slim’ shoe, which was then made wider to create a ‘stout’ shoe.

By the last century, leather was made more durable and developments in leather tanning enabled the leather to be more manipulated and shaped. It meant new styles were developed, although the classic lace up leather brogue continues to be a firm favourite.